Corsican Poulet aux Olives (Chicken with Olives)

A simple Corsican dish of essentially just...chicken and olives.

Traditionally cooked on the stove, we cooked this in a slow cooker on Bonfire Night to have a hot meal waiting for us on our return home

Serves 4

8 small chicken thighs

4 shallots, peeled and sliced into half-moons 

1 large garlic clove, peeled and crushed

1 tbsp olive oil

1 handful whole green olives, ideally stone in

1 glass (175ml) white wine or water

A rosemary or a few thyme sprigs (optional)

Brown the chicken thighs in a pan large enough for them fit as a single layer.

When browned, remove to a plate and fry the shallots and garlic in same pan for a minute or so together with any herbs if using.

Add the wine or water, return the chicken to the pan skin side up, and scatter over the olives (my partner cooked this recipe as I translated a very sketchy French recipe from the lounge, and took it upon himself to slice the olives).

Cover and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.  

If cooking in a slow cooker, prepare as above.  After adding the wine/water to the pan, heat this to boiling then pour into the warmed slow cooker.  Place the chicken skin side up into the wine/water and scatter over the olives. Cook for 6 hours on high.

Serve with a green salad and pasta, rice, or crusty bread. 

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Soupe de Haricots Verts (Green Bean Soup)

I did more research for the French regional self catering/simple/camping cookery book I am trying to write during my holiday in France.

The discovery of a recipe from the Lorraine region (now part of Grand Est) for Green Bean Soup was a find, as I picked 3 kg on my return home to the UK.

This is a simple but hearty stew like soup, with a good green bean flavour.

Makes 4 big bowls

1 onion, peeled and diced 
500g French beans, trimmed and sliced in rounds as finally as you can manage
500g potatoes, diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed.
1 tbsp olive oil 
1 litre recently boiled water
2 chicken or vegetable stock cubes 

In a saucepan, fry the onion gently in the olive oil over a medium heat whilst you chopped the vegetables.

Add the potatoes to the pan as you chop them, followed by the green beans, and the garlic. Stir every now and then, as the potatoes will start to stick to the bottom of the pan.

Once everything is chopped and in the pan, add the crumbled stock cubes and hot water.

Cover and bring to the boil. Stir to check no potato is stuck to the bottom of the pan, then replace the lid and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until the potatoes are soft enough to crush with the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher.

Serve with a drizzle of olive oil, or a spoonful of double cream, or crème fraîche.

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Lettuce Soup

Lettuce glut recipes Part 2, Lettuce Soup (Part 1 is Maroulosalata, Greek Chopped Lettuce Salad).

Lettuce Soup can be found in both French and Chinese cooking.  My recipe is based on European/French recipes, using potatoes and cream for a 'velouté' (velvety) soup, and is very simple and quick.

Makes 4 big bowls

1 tbsp light olive oil

1 onion, peeled and diced

250g lettuce, washed and roughly chopped

400g white potatoes, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped

1 litre vegetable stock 

100ml double cream (optional)

In a large saucepan, fry the diced onion in the olive oil over a medium heat for a few minutes.  

Stir in the chopped potatoes followed by the chopped lettuce and fry gently for a few more minutes.

Add the vegetable stock and garlic.  Bring to the boil then cover and turn down to a simmer.

After 20 minutes remove from the heat, add the cream, and liquidise. Can be served hot or cold.

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Homemade Lemonade

Homemade Lemonade, aka Citron Pressé or Spremuta di Limone is a great quick cooling drink in the height of summer. Depending on whether you have a sweet tooth or not, you may not need any sugar.

Ideally this is make with sugar syrup (a cooled water and sugar solution), but this assumes you want sugar.  With one Type 1 diabetic and now a pre diabetic in our family of five, we don't. Just stir well if you do add sugar.

Makes 500ml 

Juice of 1 lemon

500ml chilled still or sparkling water

Caster sugar to taste

Quite simply, juice half the lemon and add half the water. 

Taste it to see if you want sugar, and if so, how much.  Stir well to dissolve the sugar as best you can.  

Add the other half of the lemon juice and water with the same amount of sugar (if any) that you added to the first half.

Oranges or limes can be used instead of lemon.

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Sausage & Potato Traybake

We make this every time we go to France, currently twice a year, with good quality Toulouse sausage, merquez, or cooking chorizo from local butchers. 

Vegetables like chunks of red peppers and cherry tomatoes could be added when you add the sausages, but my teens would rather a green salad. 

Serves 4

1kg small potatoes, halved 
1kg sausages 
1 tbsp olive oil or butter 

Preheat the oven to 220C.

Toss the potatoes and oil together in a large high side baking dish, or dot with butter if you have no oil (as we did, on arriving for our first night at our Airbnb). 

Bake the potatoes uncovered for 20 minutes. Remove the tray from the oven and stir around the potatoes, then lay on the sausages. Return to the oven for 15 minutes.

After 15 minutes take the dish out the oven again, remove the sausages to a plate and stir around the potatoes, pushing the browner ones to the middle, and the lighter ones to the sides of the dish. Return the sausages to the dish with their paler undersides facing up. Bake for another 15 minutes or until golden brown and the juices run clear (a bit hard to tell with merquez). 

Serve with a green salad or something green.

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Air Fryer Pain au Chocolat Bread & Butter Pudding

The idea for this came from a day old pain au chocolat discovered the day after we returned from a short break in France.

Serves 1, as I only had one pain au chocolate but could be doubled etc depending on the size of your air fryer

1 pain au chocolat

1 egg

150ml whole milk

2 tbsp double cream or Greek yoghurt (optional)

1/2 tsp vanilla essence (optional)

1 tsp sugar

Slice the pain au chocolat into 1cm thick slices.  

Lay in an air fryer liner.

Beat egg and cream/yoghurt/vanilla essence if using in a mug. Beat in enough milk to fill the mug.

Pour the egg mixture over the pain au chocolat and leave to soak in for 5 minutes or more if you can.

Sprinkle over the sugar and bake in the air fryer for 10-15 minutes at 180C until golden brown on top, the egg mixture is wobbly rather than runny.

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Savoury Filled Pancakes

My middle daughter thought she'd treat her older disabled sister to pancakes for breakfast today, on Shrove Tuesday, whilst I was out dropping her younger brother and friends off in the nearest town to catch a train to London, and food shopping.

I arrived back home at lunchtime, to find the kitchen looking like the Marie Celeste with partially cooked pancake in the pan. Turns out she had used gluten free flour and an old decreasingly non-stick pancake pan. 

Dad, our regular pancake chef, tried to cook the gluten free pancakes but they still stuck with him. So, the gluten free battter has been left for me to fashion into some kind of cake, and he mixed up a standard wheat flour batter and made us savoury pancakes for lunch. My daughters had chorizo & cheddar, Dad & I had garlic fried mushroom & goats cheese.

1 mug self raising flour
1 mug milk
1 large free range egg

Oil for frying

Fillings: cooked mushrooms, melty cheese (goats cheese, cheddar, brie, blue cheese), ham, chorizo

Whisk the flour, milk, and egg together in a large mixing bowl until smooth and lump free.

Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat.  After about 1 minute add 1/2 tbsp oil and tilt the pan around to coat the bottom with oil.

Pour one soup ladleful of batter into the middle of the pan. Cook the pancakes for 1-2 minutes until little bubbles appear on the top of the pancake. Give the pan a little shake to loosen the pancake.  

Arrange your chosen fillings on one half of the pancake, cheese on the bottom closest to the heat so it melts.  Fold the empty half of the pancake over the filling and cook for another minute.

Slide onto a plate and eat immediately.

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French Bread Pancakes

Galopins are bread pancakes from Picardy in France.  They are a great way to use up old bread

I have taken from another French recipe, Migliacciu from Corsica which are baked goats cheese flatbreads, and added goats cheese to Galopins to make savoury pancakes for lunch.

Serves 4

250g stale bread, with crusts
250ml+ milk

4 eggs
250g soft goats cheese, mashed (or any strongly flavoured cheese, cubed)
Pinch of salt

Cut the bread into very thin slices and pour over the milk.  As the bread absorbs the milk, mash with a fork and add more milk until the mixture is a porridge consistency.

Beat in the eggs, and more milk if required, until you have a thick pancake batter. Stir in the cheese.

Heat a drizzle of oil in non-stick frying pan.  Pour in about 1/4 of the the mixture and cook over a medium low heat for a couple of minutes until golden brown.  Flipping is difficult, if not impossible, so slide the pancake on to a plate and then flip over on top of the pan so the uncooked side of the pancake is facing down. Cook for another couple of minutes until the underside is golden brown.

If you would prefer a sweet pancake, omit the cheese and sprinkle the cooked pancake with a little sugar to taste.

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Chicken Liver Pâté

The smell of chicken liver pâté cooking is a smell that takes me back to New Year’s Eves in the 1970s and my mother cooking it in the morning for a party that evening.

I’m not a fan of liver, but chicken liver pâté I love (and so do my fussy kids).

This is a lighter version than most on the web, which are covered in butter. I have switched the butter from my mother’s original recipe to olive oil.

400g chicken livers
300g streaky bacon

1 clove of garlic
1 tbsp olive oil 
1 tbsp brandy (optional)

Roughly chop the bacon and fry in the olive oil over a medium heat in a saucepan until golden brown.

Add the garlic and chicken livers. Cover and cook gently for 15 minutes.

Leave to cool for about 10 minutes (so it's not too hot for a plastic blender cup) then chop in a food processor with the brandy until smooth.  Serve with toast.

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French Onion Soup

French Onion Soup is such a tasty, warming soup with so few (cheap) ingredients.

It is traditionally made with beef stock, but can be made with vegetable stock if preferred. And gluten free plain flour works as well as plain wheat flour if required.

Serves a hearty 4

1kg brown onions, peeled, halved and very thinly sliced

2 tbsp light olive oil

1 tsp sugar

4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

2 heaped tbsp plain flour 

1.2 litres strong beef stock (3 stock cubes)

200ml white wine

Fry the onions in the olive oil over a medium heat in a covered heavy based pan for about 10 minutes until soft.

Sprinkle over the sugar, stir and fry for a further 20 minutes until golden and caramelised.

Add the chopped garlic, stir through, then sprinkle over the flour and stir well.  Pour in the wine and stir quickly to prevent the flour going lumpy.  Once the flour starts to thicken with the wine, add a little stock and keep stirring.  Repeat one or two more times then add the rest of the stock.

Bring to the boil, cover, and turn down to a summer for a further 20 minutes, stirring and checking the onion and flour is not sticking to the bottom every now and then.

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Fideua, a kind of Pasta Paella

Fideuà is a simple pasta paella that has been on my ‘To Do’ list for a few years since I came across it on a menu in South West France, a region (and cuisine) heavily influenced by Catalunya and Spain.

I picked up a packet of Fideuà pasta in the  supermarket in the small, very French, beach resort we are staying in just south of Beziers, and thought I’d give it a try. But it would work well with vermicelli or orzo pasta.

Serves 4

500g Fideuà pasta, soup vermicelli, or orzo
500g chopped prepared squid or mixed seafood
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 large beef tomato, finely chopped or 2 tbsp tomato paste 

1 red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped 

1 large garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 pinch saffron (optional) 

1 litre dish stock (I used mussel broth from Moules Mariniere cooked a few day earlier)

In a large saucepan, fry the onion gently in the olive oil until translucent. In the recipe I had partly copied out it said fry the pasta in olive oil first and set aside. But I couldn’t be bothered with this step. 

When the onion is soft, add the garlic and red pepper and fry for a few minutes. 

Next, if you’re using vermicelli pasta or any pasta that takes 10 minutes or less, add the squid or seafood before the tomato and give it a quick fry. The Fideuà pasta looked the same thickness as spaghetti  and the packet said 20 minutes cooking time, so I see decided to add the squid 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time. So I added the chopped tomato after the red pepper. 

Whenever you are adding the squid, add the pasta after you’ve added the tomato. Stir round then add 1 litre of fish stock, the paprika, and saffron if using. 

Cover and bring to the boil. Once boiling, turn down to the lowest simmer and cook for the cooking time on the packet of pasta. Stir from time to time. 

If the cooking time is more than 10 minutes, stir the squid in 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time. 

When the pasta’s cooking time is up, turn the heat off but leave the lid on. Leave for a gutter 10 minutes before serving.

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Slow Cooker French Onion Soup

I came by a large amount of past their best onions last week.  I peeled and trimmed them, and then recalling a slow cooker onion soup recipe, decided to caramelise them in the slow cooker whilst I got on with a lot of other cooking on the hob.

It is a slow recipe - about 18 hours - but a very hands off one (apart from slicing all the onions)

Serves 6

2kg onions, peeled and thinly sliced

1 large garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 tbsp light olive oil
1 tbsp butter

1.5l boiling water

200ml white wine

3 organic beef stock cubes

2 tbsp plain (or gluten free) flour 

Put the sliced onions in a slow cooker on low overnight with the oil and butter.  The recipe I read online said 10 hours minimum. I put mine on high around 7pm, then down to Low at 11pm. The next morning at 8am they were only just caramelising, with a surprising amount of liquid. 

I kept them on low until 11am, then added the water, crumbled stock cubes, wine, garlic, and flour mixed with a little water until pourable.  Mix well, and leave for another couple of hours, stirring occasionally.

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Salade Niçoise, French Tuna Salad

It turns out there are quite a few versions of Salade Nicoise, and I was going to stick my neck out and say the only thing that people agree on is that it has tuna and egg, but I’m not feeling that bold. 

On a hot summer’s evening in the South of France this is what I made 

Serves 4-5

A big handful of washed, chopped lettuce per person

1kg cooked and chilled salad potatoes, sliced

1/2 sweet onion, sliced 

1 large beef tomato cut into bite sized chunks

1/2 a cucumber cut into chunky half moons

2 tins tuna, drained

1 hard boiled egg per person, chilled, peeled, and quartered

About 10 black (or green) olives per person

Olive oil

Red wine vinegar

Pepper & salt

Assemble in the order listed above. I served it up on 5 pasta bowls, trying to cater for everyone’s likes and dislikes - my disabled daughter can’t chew lettuce, other daughter doesn’t like tomato, I don’t like egg...

You could make a vinaigrette dressing but I just put the oil and vinegar in the table and let people do it themselves. 

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Tian de Courgettes (Baked Rice with Courgette)

I’ve been meaning to make Tian de Courgettes for ages, every time we self cater in the South of France in the summer holidays. 

My gut instinct is that courgettes are dull, flavourless. But frying them seems to add a whole new dimension (and flavour to them). 

Serves 5

500g-1.5kg courgettes (original recipe from Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean Cookery calls for 1.5kg, I only had 500g)

2 onions, peeled & thinly sliced 

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 

350g long grain rice

100g Parmesan or strong cheese eg extra mature cheddar, grated

4 eggs

3 tbsp olive oil

1 vegetable stock cube (optional) 

Grate the courgettes and fry in 2 tbsp of olive oil until dark green and considerably reduced in size. Claudia Roden’s recipe says boil for 20 mins then mash and drain, which may be preferable to frying if using 1.5kg of courgettes. 

Put the courgettes into a bowl and fry the onions gently until caramelised. Add the chopped garlic and then add to the courgettes. 

Cook the rice for 10 mins until tender. Drain. 

Beat the eggs and then mix everything together,

Including the finely chopped stock cube if using.  Grease a baking dish well with olive oil and pour in the mixture.

Bake at 200C/180C Fan for 40 minutes until firm and golden. 

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Whole Egg Mayonnaise

Over Christmas I tried to make mayonnaise for the first time, with an egg yolk leftover from making Royal icing. It was surprisingly easy in a food processor. Whilst googling how to do it  I noticed several recipes for whole eggs, so I thought I'd try to make some for tonight's Tuna Mayonnaise (with jacket potatoes) as I only ever use egg whites once a year.

1 large free range egg (room temperature)
1 tsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

200ml sunflower oil

Break the egg into a food processor bowl and process with the mustard, vinegar, and pinch of salt until fully incorporated. 

With the processor running on it's slowest begin dripping oil very slowly into the 'funnel', stopping dripping every few drops to check it is being thoroughly mixed in. Keep at this until about 50ml oil has been added and don't be tempted to rush this stage.

Once 50ml has been added and the mixture is looking smooth and double cream like you can begin trickling the oil in slightly faster, in a steady thin stream. Again stop pouring every now and then to make sure the oil is fully incorporated, or if you see a streak of oil in the mix.  When all the oil has been added, stop the processor and scrape down the sides and around the bottom of the processor bowl then process again to make sure everything is thoroughly incorporated.

Taste the mayonnaise and season a little more to taste. A little lemon juice or vinegar can be added both for flavour, or to thin the mayonnaise if too thick.  If too thin, turn the processor back on and trickle in more oil until thicker. Do bear in mind the mayonnaise thickens very slightly in the fridge.

Once you have mastered mayonnaise (mine has always worked first time, but I remember my father's attempts always separated) you can experiment with different flavours - garlic, paprika, chopped herbs, curry powder etc

I have read that homemade mayonnaise should last in the fridge until the Use By date of the eggs, but I personally am only happy keeping it in the fridge for up to a week.

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Courgette & Cheddar Soufflé

I have returned from holiday to a courgette glut at the allotment, so am expanding my repertoire of courgette recipes.  Someone posted a picture of a courgette soufflé on a gardening group on Facebook, so I thought I'd have a go.  Turns out it's not as hard as I thought.

And an unexpected bonus - my nearly teenage son and avowed courgette hater stomped into the kitchen after calling him down for lunch several times, swiped a ramekin of soufflé I'd made with some leftover mixture from the breakfast bar, and promptly wolfed it down.

Serves 4

300ml whole milk

20g butter, plus extra for greasing

20g plain flour

350g courgettes, topped & tailed

1 tbsp olive oil

100g mature cheddar, grated

3 large free-range eggs

Put butter, milk and four into a small saucepan and heat gently, whisking until the butter has melted. Change to a wooden spoon and stir over the heat until it becomes a smooth sauce.  Turn off the heat and leave to cool whilst you prepare the other ingredients.

Coarsely grate the courgettes.  Mix with a pinch of salt and leave in a colander to drain for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes squeeze as much liquid out of the courgettes by hand.  Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the courgette and stir fry for a couple of minutes. Turn off the heat and leave to one side

Preheat the oven to 180°C.

Lightly butter a soufflé dish. Add 25g of the grated cheese and shake to coat the base and the sides of the dish. Stir the rest of the cheese into the white sauce.

Separate the eggs, putting the whites into a large, very clean mixing bowl and stirring the yolks into the cooled sauce. Whisk the egg whites to firm peaks.

Stir in the courgettes into the white sauce and season with salt and pepper, then gently fold the sauce into the whisked egg whites.

Pour the soufflé mixture into the buttered soufflé dish. and bake for about 35 minutes, covering the top loosely with a sheet of foil after about 20 minutes, until it’s puffed, golden and cooked at the very centre, yet still soft and creamy inside. Serve straightaway with a lightly dressed, soft-leaved green salad.

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Couscous Royal

My partner has been coming to the South of France since the 1980s, to his parents static caravan parked up in a campsite at Serignan Plage (which was washed away in a winter flood in the mid 1990s). He tells tales of drinking beer with his mates and eating merquez frites, Couscous Royal, and other southern French take away dishes.

We’ve been coming to the same area of the South of France since 2004, and have enjoyed expanding our growing family's gastronomic repertoire over the years. They love merquez, tomato sauces, meat, and garlic in most of its forms. So Couscous Royal, which in theory has four meats in it - merguez, lamb, chicken, and beef - suits them down to the ground, even if I did reduce the meat a bit. 

My recipe is taken from a pack of Carrefour couscous, minus the chicken, beef, carrots, turnips, cinnamon, and ground coriander only for ease of shopping.

Serves 4

4 merguez

4 lamb chops (épaule tranchée), or chicken legs

1 can chickpeas

1 can chopped tomatoes 

1 onions, peeled and chopped 

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

1 mug of couscous 

Fry the chopped onion in the olive oil in a large saucepan. When it begins to go brown add the couscous and lamb to seal it  

Add the garlic and spices. Stir around then add chopped tomatoes, chickpeas and their liquid and then top up with enough water to cover. Bring to the boil then simmer for 20 minutes whilst you cook the couscous

Add double the volume of boiling water to couscous to a Pyrex dish and leave covered to absorb the water for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve with the meat. 

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Vegan Mayonnaise

When making Swedish Dill Sauce earlier in the year I realised not only was it vegan, but I could probably make a vegan mayonnaise by varying the ingredients slightly.

Yesterday I tried, and the resulting was so moreish that I forgot to take a photo until after I'd stirred it all through raw sliced fennel.

1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp cider apple vinegar
150 ml sunflower oil
Salt

Place mustard and vinegar in a small liquidiser jug and blitz with a wand until incorporated.

Add the oil one tablespoon at a time, blending well after each spoonful, until all the oil has been added and the mixture has thickened.  If too thick, add a few more drops of vinegar and mix in well to loosen.  Season with salt to taste.

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Mediterranean Squid & Potato Stew

I had 'Ragout d'Encornet' a few years ago in a restaurant better known for it's pizzas in the South of France. I kind of recreated it in our self catering apartment later that holiday.

Tonight, realising I had bought too little fish for a fish stew, I decided to add potatoes to make this into more filling dinner.

Serves a hearty 4

500g squid, 'lamelles d'encornet', or white fish
500g white potato
half a large bulb of fennel
1 large onion
1 large clove of garlic
1 carton of pasta
200ml white wine
200ml recently boiled water
1 tsp smoked paprika

Peel and thinly slice the onion. Add the olive oil to a casserole and soften gently over a medium low heat whilst you dice the fennel and potato.

Push the onion to one side one it starts to brown and add the fennel.  Fry gently for 5 minutes then mix with the onion, push to the side, and add the potato.  Fry for another 5 minutes, add the garlic, mix around then add the rest of the ingredients apart from the fish. Bring to the boil, turn down to a simmer, then cover and cook gently for 30 minutes or the potato is tender.

Add your fish or squid in bite sized pieces, and poke just under the surface. Simmer gently with the lid on for 5 minutes until the fish is just cooked.

Season and serve with couscous, pasta or crusty bread.

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Quick Chickpea Salad with Cumin

Never think to make this at home but we made it pretty much every day over half term, away with foodie friends in France, to accompany barbecued meat

1 can chickpeas, drained
1/2 a small onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2-3 tbsp mustard vinaigrette
Salt to taste
1/2 tsp ground cumin

Mix all ingredients together and leave to marinade for as long as possible.  Can be made with 1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp red wine vinegar if you don't have vinaigrette to hand.

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